breeder

Out Of Hand Fiber Arts

CCR Angora Rabbitry

Shopping for a Rabbit Breeder

Elaine Harvey, CCR Rabbitry

President, PAngora Rabbit Breeders Club

D9 Director American Thrianta Rabbit Breeders Club

“Shop for a BREEDER?!” you may ask. “Wait, I don’t want to bring home a breeder, I want to bring home a rabbit.”

As true as this may be, it is the breeder behind that rabbit that will have the biggest impact on the success of your pet relationship, breeding efforts or show results. Everyone has heard the stories about picking up a bunny for $5 at the local auction or swap meet that has gone on to win multiple championships or become the world’s greatest pet, but those are the exceptions. Don’t count on that exception any more than you count on finding a Picasso behind the garage sale painting. Good breeders tend to produce good animals, but how to determine if the person before you is a good breeder?

If it is possible and agreeable, visit the person at their barn or rabbitry. Don’t get upset if this is not agreeable. Thanks to the efforts of Animal Rights Activists and the increased awareness of Agro-terrorism, many breeders have closed their facilities to visitors. If a breeder says ‘No’ to a barn visit, don’t argue and don’t automatically think badly of them, ask when and where a visit may be arranged. If you are not able to visit the facility, Ask the breeder for a time to visit where you can discuss the same topics. It will take time. If the breeder is unwilling to give you the time you need to feel completely comfortable, then perhaps it’s not the right breeder for you. Newer rabbit owners have more questions, require more time and need more hand-holding in general. If a breeder is not comfortable providing that, then find a breeder who will. In the future when you are more knowledgeable, that first person might be the one to take you to the next level of expertise. In the meantime, you need a mentor.

The breeder him/her self:

Is the person willing to spend the time you need to make a comfortable decision or do they push you into a purchase you don’t feel comfortable with? You will possibly spend the next 7 – 9 years with this pet rabbit or as a breeder it will have an impact on the long term future of your herd. A rushed purchase is never in your best interest.
Is the breeder an individual of respect for himself and other people? Does he tell you about his own animals and his own program or spend time telling you how bad someone else or their animals are? Is the breeder a person that others can come to for advise and does he seek the guidance of others when he doesn’t have an answer? Is the breeder someone who will seek out the answer to a question they don’t know or does he make something up just to sound good?

If the answer to either of these first two questions is negative, then move on to someone else no matter how good their stock might be. You can breed a better animal but you’ll never improve a bore.

Is the breeder intimately knowledgeable of the breed, it’s ARBA standard, it’s show qualities and it’s weaknesses? Is the breeder active in breed or rabbit clubs and shows? Many good breeders are not, but it’s almost always a plus.
Is the breeder intimately knowledgeable of their own animal’s history of breeding, health, development, show history and breeding qualities?
Does the breeder demonstrate regard for their own animals and other people’s rabbits? Does he/she handle the rabbit respectfully and with care? Does he give the rabbit time to show itself or does he force it into a pose unnaturally? Does the rabbit appear fearful or stressed by being handled by this person?
Can the breeder verbalize to you their breeding goals, how this particular rabbit falls into those goals and what good and BAD traits it might bring to your program?
In the case of high maintenance breeds such as Angoras, Hares or the heavy or running breeds is the breeder willing to entertain your future questions or are they able to refer you to someone who will?

If you are able to visit the facility, what are you looking for?

Caging:

Certainly there is a minimum standard for humane housing and care of animals but within that definition of ‘humane’ is a wide range of acceptable alternatives. Rabbits can be kept in wire cages, wood hutches, outdoor runs or indoor barns, over drop pans or litter trained and all of these arrangements can be healthy and productive under the right circumstances. Cage size and running space varies as much by the build and temperament of the rabbit as by simple weight or body size. A 2 lb Netherland dwarf may be quite content in a 18 x 24 cage but a 2 lb high energy Britania Petite that needs to run may be quite unhappy in the same cage preferring a 12 x 36 arrangement. So what should you look for?

Are the cage spaces large enough for the animals to behave in a natural way according to their breed type? Do they lie down with an alert but relaxed posture? Are the animals that are nervous have enough space in the cage to retreat and feel safe?
Are food and water fixtures available, clean and in good repair? Don’t expect feed cups to be full. Rabbits do NOT need to be free fed and often are unhealthy and overweight when overfed. But feed cups should be clean and in good repair ready for the day’s meal. Rabbits should have access to CLEAN water at all times. If cups are used, is the water clean and free of any soiling? If bottles or auto systems are used are they clean and in good repair?
Whatever type of cage is used is it in good repair and of sound construction? Are wire floors rusty or loosely patched creating a possible cause of foot troubles? Are wood hutches dry and well bedded? Are doors securely fastened preventing escapes and accidental breedings? Are the cages orderly and well built or haphazard and stacked on whatever is handy?
Is the area well ventilated? There is always an odor where animals are housed. Frankly, human homes have their own odor as well, but like our own home, is the noxious odor of waste overwhelming or is a body odor simply present? Fresh air is vital to good health and vigor. What means has the breeder provided to improve air exchange? Fans? Open walls or windows? If outside, is the hutch well above any waste? Is the area well shaded and protected from wind and rain? Rabbits are stressed by direct sunlight. Is the area lighted enough to be safe but not so much as to cause undue stress?

Sanitation

“Sanitary” can mean different things to different people. The pet owner who keeps one or two rabbits in their home may have zero tolerance for any odor or soiling in or outside of the cage. The parent with toddlers may insist that every poop ball be picked up immediately knowing the propensity for small children to taste. Ick. The career nurse may be tempted to bleach cages and trays at every given opportunity. But are these expectations within the range of acceptable for a commercial rabbtry environment? Probably not. Animals (and humans for that matter) that are never exposed to normal pathogens never develop the natural immunity to fight off disease caused by those environmental challenges. We tend to disinfect ourselves to death. To a buyer of rabbits, that behavior in a breeder may cost you many expensive trips to a Vet or the survival of the animal itself.

What level of sanitation should you look for?

Again, note air quality and the ability to easily remove noxious fumes from the area.
Take note of efforts to control insects and rodents. It’s virtually impossible to fully eliminate flies, mice and spiders, but are there active means to fight these pests? Fly strips, sprays, bait stations, predators (cats) are all effective means to control pests. Ask the breeder specifically what they do to combat infestations. Some measures such as medications or surface sprays may not be readily apparent.
What is the state of the waste removal? It is not reasonable to expect that all waste be removed daily but does there seem to be an unreasonable accumulation of waste? Ask how often waste is removed. Be aware that there are many methods to deal with waste. Worm beds beneath cages are not removed regularly but they should be attended and cultured regularly. Ask. Any situation where waste accumulated INTO the living space with the animal is not acceptable.
Look at the cages themselves. Is there accumulation of hair, calcium, urine that is beyond reason? Especially in a barn where long wooled animals are kept, or during warm months with fans blowing, there WILL be some hair and wool on cages. It’s a simple fact of life. But can you touch a cage door without cringing? Can you see the animal through the wool on the door? If in doubt about the amount of stuff covering the cage…ASK what the cleaning routine is.
Does the breeder practice good livestock hygiene? Handwashing or Hand sanitizer available? Are vaccinations or routine worming part of the regimen? Are new and/or sick animals properly isolated?

Is the area SAFE?

This is such an important clue to the way the breeder regards their animals and their own wellbeing.

Is the walkway cluttered with hay, feed, waste, tools? Is there a safe and clear walkway from every single cage to a care table?
Are sharp objects such as scissors, nail clippers, slicker brushes, combs, screwdrivers, kept clean and safely put away?
Are electrical outlets clean, protected from moisture and soiling, up away from the floor and not overloaded with appliances and plugs?
Is the area well lighted?
Are there basic first aid items available in case of bites or injury? Clean water, towels, antiseptic wash or spray.
Are medications stored properly and refrigerated when appropriate? Hint: an open syringe sticking out of a antibiotic vial sitting on an open shelf is not appropriate.

Animal Behavior

Sometimes the best clue to the care and conditions of the rabbitry are given by the animals themselves. Please don’t take this as consent to over-personify rabbits. Merely open your eyes and ears and watch and listen for the signs of healthy animal behavior. It’s important to know the normal behavior for your breed of interest. Normal behavior for French Lops may not be normal for Holland Lops and I would not be satisfied with a Fuzzy Lop that behaved like a Tan. Know your breed.

Are the animals acting normal for their breed? Are they relaxed or overly agitated? It’s common for animals to be hyper-alert or to retreat to the back of the cage when presented with new circumstances but not normal to be aggressively fearful or stressed into avoidance behaviors. Passive aggression can be a very dangerous behavior. Beware animals that avoid all eye contact, hide their face in the corner or freeze and refuse to move. These animals can strike quickly and painfully without warning.
Does the breeder regard the animal’s behavior or force them to comply despite warning postures? The animal doesn’t need to give it’s “consent” to being handled but there is a respectful way to reach into a cage and approach a cautious animal and that right behavior can save you a painful bite and the animal stress.
If you are looking for a pet, notice if the animals are able to overcome their nervousness when spoken to and handled by the breeder. Not all breeders intend their animals to be of a pet friendly temperament. If not bred and handled with this in mind, then all the training in the world may not change it.
Is the rabbit willing to be touched and petted? Does it respond with curiosity to your voice and approach? Is it calm enough to be held for the time you are comfortable? (this can be anything from 2 minutes while you say ‘good morning Fluffy’ to 2 hours while you spin from an angoras coat). Did the breeder breed specifically for animals with pet friendly temperaments? ASK!
Is the activity level of the animal something you are comfortable with? Even within a single breed, there will be animals that are more laid back and those that are very type A. What type of personality are YOU looking for? Can the breeder identify the personality of the rabbit you are interested in?

Nothing on this list can guarantee that the rabbit you buy will be your lifelong companion or will raise your Sweepstakes standing at shows. This list is intended to give you mental tools to consider when deciding who to buy stock from. Very often, if that purchase was successful, that breeder may become a mentor and friend to you and that friendship will outlive any rabbit you purchase. It’s been my experience that breeders who fit my own definition of a person I want to buy animals from, also fits my definition of a person I want to share time with.